2月10日，时装设计师特里娜•特克在纽约时装周（New York Fashion Week）举办了首场发布秀。她说，考虑到自己的服装品牌是在1995年创立的，从品牌创立到举办发布秀，中间隔着相对较长的时间。但是这对特克来说恰到好处，她并不急着进军时装周。

    特克把加州人特有的冷静态度带到了时装界。她说自己所有的设计灵感都来自黄金州。经过17年的打拼，她不仅在美国各地开设了时装店，还把服装卖给了不计其数的批发商。特克还在扩张自己的品牌，使公司的经营范围横跨从寝具到iPhone保护套的多个品类。但这并不意味着她会为了筹备时装周而开夜车，或者将员工逼得太紧。

    特克在接受《财富》采访时畅谈了没有商业规划、直接创立服装品牌的利与弊，以及如何在竟争惨烈的行业中保持沉稳。

    问：你的名字是整个品牌的主心骨。你的时尚理念是什么？

    答：我走到这一步并不是为了做新一代先锋时尚设计师。我关心的是女性和她们在生活中的切实需求，因为我自己也是女性。我觉得好看的、讨人喜欢的东西并不一定非得是那种5,000美元的奢侈品。

    抱着这样的理念，你如何物色富有创意的设计师？

    这是一个渐进的过程。就在八年前，所有的事情都还是我一个人包揽，不管是画图还是设计。我慢慢组建起自己的设计团队，让所有的成员都知道，我并不是那么喜欢浮夸的设计，也不喜欢褶皱和蝴蝶结。久而久之，他们领悟了这样的美学思想。

    跟任何一位设计师开始合作，都势必要经历一个磨合的过程。我还没有遇到过哪个设计师从一开始合作就能完全了解你的理念。或许有这样的人，只不过我还没有找到。

    你也给别的公司效力过。以前为别的设计师工作，现在创立了自己的品牌，你如何转换自己的角色？

    老实说，我没有做任何商业规划就直接放手去干了。而且我也不知道自己何去何从。原本存了一小笔钱可供急用。那时，我每天都得工作很长时间，而且是一个人单干。我经常开车，载着布匹四处转悠，然后把它们卸下来。这种事情我再也做不来了，真的是太疯狂了。

    Fashion designer Trina Turk held her first show at New York Fashion Week on February 10. Given that she launched her own clothing line in 1995, that's a relatively long time without having a show at the event, she says. But that's just as well for Turk. She didn't feel the need to jump into that pool so quickly.

    Turk brings a California-cool attitude to fashion. All her designs are inspired by the Golden State, she claims. After 17 years, she has boutiques all over the country and also sells her clothing to numerous wholesalers. Turk is also expanding her brand to encompass everything from bedding to iPhone cases. But that doesn't mean that she's going to pull an all-nighter at Fashion Week or create a bummer of a work environment.

    Turk talks to Fortune about the pros and cons of launching a line without a business plan and how to stay low-drama in a cutthroat industry.

    Q: Your name is the backbone of the whole brand. What is your fashion philosophy?

    A:I'm not really here to be the next avant-garde fashion designer. I'm thinking about women and their practical concerns in their lives, because that's who I am. I think that something can be beautiful and flattering without being $5,000.

    How do you get creative designer-types on board with that?

    It's been this evolution. Up until eight years ago, I sketched and designed every single thing myself. And I slowly built a design team that understands that I don't really like fussy; I don't like little ruffles and bows. Over time, they learned the aesthetic.

    When you first start off with any designer, there's a learning curve. I've yet to have anybody start and immediately understand what we're trying to do here. Maybe that person is out there, but I haven't found them yet.

    And you've been there. How did you switch from working for other designers to starting your own line?

    You know, honestly, I never wrote a business plan. I just started. And I had no idea what I was getting myself into. I had a small amount of money from my own savings. I worked really long days, and it was just me. I was driving around with rolls of fabric in my car and dropping them off. I could never do it again, it was incredibly insane.

    现在想想，你当初在开公司之前完全不懂其中的艰辛几乎是件值得庆幸的事。

    真的是这样。这个问题我想了很多次。当初要是做了商业规划，预见了种种的艰辛，我可能就会被吓倒，可能就不会放手去做。事实上我是在什么都不知道的情况下一头扎了进去。我觉得自己的使命之一就是不必为别人打工。如果你单打独斗开创了自己的事业，又要包揽那么多的事情，你会习惯所有的事情都亲力亲为。

    从凡事亲力亲为到自己当经理指挥别人，你对这样的角色转换有什么感受？

    我觉得公司发展壮大以后，我遇到的最大的挑战之一就是学会把某些事情交给别人去做。

    你是怎么在顺其自然和坚持理念之间保持平衡的？

    我觉得公司成立17年依然屹立不倒的原因之一就是，我们会经常审视自己做的事情。干完一天的活，就必须出一个像样的成果；不能盲目追随潮流。必须要有自己的个性，而我觉得个性取决于自己的品味。

    你的品牌创立了17年，上周才在纽约时装周举办发布秀。为什么要选择现在发布？

    我们的品牌销量很好。要让品牌畅销，不一定非得参加那样的活动。但是之所以选择在这个时间举办发布秀，只是因为我们觉得时机已经成熟，应该让更多的人知道我们，应该在更高的层次上、以更受瞩目的方式经营时装。

    你这次发布的时装系列的灵感是什么？

    我们的主题是加利福尼亚现代时装。我对建筑有点痴迷。加利福尼亚南部有很多现代主义建筑在我看来很有启发性——它们真的是表现了建材本身的美，而不是靠浮华的风格或装饰取胜。

    人人都说，要让纯白色的房间看起来漂亮，比让装饰富丽的房间看起来漂亮更难，而且难度大很多，因为你会注意到不完美的地方。我们做的就是这样的事情。我们尽力挑选最好的纺织品，在款式的设计上则相对简约，力图表现出纺织品本身的美。

    It's almost as if, thank goodness you didn't know any better.

    It's true, I've thought about that many times. I think if I had done a business plan, I would have been so intimidated by what I was going to try and do that I maybe wouldn't have done it. I just sort of dove in. I guess part of my mission was to not have to work for somebody else. When you start off, literally by yourself and you're doing so many things, you get used to doing everything.

    What is it like to switch from that mode to being a manager?

    I think one of my biggest challenges as this company has grown is figuring out how to let go of some of these things and let other people do their jobs.

    How do you balance letting things go and maintaining your own aesthetic?

    I think one of the reasons why we're still in business 17 years later is because there has been a consistent look to what we've been doing. At the end of the day, it has to look like something; you can't just jump on any trend bandwagon that comes along. There has to be some sort of identity, which is, I suppose, what my taste is.

    After 17 years, you showed at New York Fashion Week last week. Why now?

    We have a successful business and you can do business without participating in that particular event, but we just thought it was time to make sure that people knew that we were here and doing fashion in a more elevated, visible way.

    What was the inspiration for the line that you showed?

    Our theme was California modern. I'm a bit of an architectural hobbyist, and in southern California, there's a lot of modernist architecture that I find inspiring -- It's really about the materials speaking for themselves as opposed to complicated styling or embellishment.

    Everyone says it's much harder to make a plain white room look good than it is to make a very decorated room look good because you notice the imperfections. In the same way, we try to pick the best textiles that we can and then do a style that's relatively simple and just let the material show.

    第一次参加时装周的感觉怎样？是不是很疯狂？

    最有意思的是，我们雇了一个制作公司、一个造型师和一个模特星探。这些人都已经身经百战了，参加过各种各样的时装发布秀。他们都说，“哇，你们真的很有组织。”

    我觉得我这一行有很多盛会，很多人会在举办发布秀的前夕彻夜工作。但我们完全不会这样。我们公司的人每天都睡八个小时。

    在我印象里，设计师备战时装周的过程很疯狂，衣服到处乱扔，尽提一些苛刻的要求。

    对，我的意思是，或许是有这种情况。我觉得有些人很热衷于参加这种盛会，但我不是。

    在如此残酷的行业中，你是怎么保持冷静的？

    我也在别的设计师手下干过。怎么说，他们有些人个性很强，而公司的工作环境在我看来其实并不是很好。我只是希望营造一个友好的工作环境，让每个人都觉得自己受到了尊重，不管他们是仓库的装货工还是CEO。

    我觉得我们做到了这一点。公司的大多数员工都乐得其所。我觉得这么说并不是自欺欺人。我觉得干我们这一行，就应该尽可能营造舒适的工作氛围。（财富中文网）

    译者：Nasca

    How was your first Fashion Week? Was it crazy?

    The most interesting thing was that we hired a production company, a stylist, and a casting director, all of whom work on these fashion shows all the time, and they all said, "Wow, you guys are so organized."

    I think there's a lot of drama in our industry, and I think there's a lot of all-nighters right before the show, and we didn't really do that at all. We all got eight hours of sleep.

    In my mind, designers preparing for Fashion Week are throwing fabric around, making unreasonable demands.

    Yeah, I mean, I guess it could be that way. I think that some people perhaps thrive on that kind of drama, but I don't.

    How do you keep calm in such a cutthroat industry?

    I have worked for some, how shall we say it, strong personalities in some atmospheres that I didn't really think were very productive. I just wanted to have a workplace where everybody treated everybody with respect, whether they were the guy who was packing the box in the warehouse or the CEO.

    That's one thing that I feel like we've accomplished here. I don't think I'm deluding myself to say that most of the people who work here enjoy working here. In the scheme of our industry, I think it's about as pleasant as it could possibly be.