九日狂奔十夜情(二):初到河内·还剑湖

(河内暴走路线)

我的旅行计划从一开始就受到了干扰。南航的飞机在北京严重晚点,到广州转机时,又因跑道繁忙迟迟不能起飞。越南比中国晚一个小时,飞机应该在当地时间晚上9点到,我本来可以坐上越南航空公司的大巴,前往市区。可等我下飞机时已经快11点了。大巴肯定是没有了。打的去旅馆的话,要花20多美元呢。

但出了内排机场(Noi Bai),才知道我的担心是多余的。虽然没有大巴,可还有Minibus和面的。两种交通工具的相同之处是,司机都要等到客满才发车。不同之处是Minibus走固定线路,终点也在市区的越航总部,离我预订的宾馆很近。价格2美元,但对外国人收4美元。面的需要事先讲价,最多4美元也能搞定,缺点是线路不固定,司机可能要带着你在城里兜上一圈,最后才把你带到宾馆。

上车之后,开始观察河内夜景。现在的河内仍是一座典型的发展中国家的城市,建筑物略显破旧,基础设施有待完善,和国内的一些中等城市差不多。

面的把我送到了老城区中心的河内背包客旅舍(Hanoi Backpackers Hostel),位于县巷48号(48 Ngo Huyen)。这是一条很窄很短的巷子,不知为何会有这么大的门牌号,而且还在小巷偏中间的位置。这家旅舍得到《Lonely Planet》旅游指南(LP)的大力推荐,已是久负盛名,很多背包客在越南的第一晚,就是在这里度过的。我事先在网上订了一个床位(网址:http://www.hihostels.com/),7.5美元/晚。这个价位可不算便宜,北边的老城区里边有很多家庭旅馆,据说6美元可以住上带厕所和空调的单间。只不过我到达河内时已是半夜,现找旅馆比较麻烦。

我被宾馆的员工带上了三楼的一个房间。这是一间男女混居宿舍,有5张上下铺,可住10人。我正是第10位房客。除了我,其他人都是高加索种。我觉得一些西方女性挺开放的,穿着很少的内衣在房间里走来走去。我当然没什么不适,只觉得白花花有点晃眼。

等我睡下,才发现这个房间条件真的不是很好,没有空调,电扇噪音太大,这一夜睡得很不踏实。

早上六点起床,先去了吃旅馆提供的免费早餐,泡了一包方便面。越南的方便面超级难吃,而且不好消化,直到这一天的下午,我感觉面条还留在胃里,害得我一整天都不舒服。

吃完早餐,退了房,背上包,真正开始了越南之旅。从县巷东边出来,往南走上钟楼街(Pho Nha Chung),来到第一个景点:巍峨的河内天主大教堂(Catholic Cathedral of Hanoi)。河内原名升龙(Thang Long),是一座千年古都,只不过久经战火,保存下来的古迹不多。倒是殖民时代的一些建筑,被完好的保留下来,如今成为河内的标志性建筑。这座教堂所在地原有一座古佛塔,后来被法国人推倒,盖了教堂。这应该是征服的象征。但中国人花了一千年都没做到的事,法国人同样也做不到。

现在是早上七点,教堂大门紧闭,四周很冷清。我只围着教堂转了一圈就准备离开了。

(河内大教堂)


没想到在横穿钟楼街时,居然遭遇意外事故。我过街过到一半,开始注意右侧的车辆,一辆摩托车突然从左侧驶过我面前。我感到一阵疼痛,感觉摩托车的车蹬蹭到了我的腿。司机也发现了情况,但他只是回头看了我一眼,就迅速逃逸了。一开始,我还不相信自己被撞到,站在街中间呆立了好几秒。等我回过神来,赶紧找个安全地方查看:左小腿被蹭掉一大块皮,血开始向外渗。好在没有伤到骨头,不妨碍走路。旅程还很长,不能多想,赶紧上路吧。

 向东没走多远,就来到了还剑湖(Ho Hoan Kiem)旁边的黎太祖街(Pho Le Thai To)。越南城市的大部分道路是以民族英雄或历史名人命名的。这位黎太祖是还剑湖传说的主角,他名叫黎利(Le Loi,越南几乎所有城市都有这个街道名),本是明朝在安南封的土官,趁大明在安南统治未稳之机,起兵反明。传说,他得到了上天赐与的一把宝剑,从此所向无敌,最终赶走明军,建立后黎朝,死后庙号太祖。不过,这位越南的亚瑟王并没能终身保有这把神剑。一日,黎利在绿水湖(Ho Luc Thuy)上泛舟,忽有大龟浮出水面。他拔剑斫龟,却被大龟将宝剑衔入水中。黎利排干了湖水,也未找到神剑。这个湖因此被称为“还剑湖”。

在越南人眼里,黎利争取民族独立的英雄。但从中国人的角度讲,他实在是一个双手沾满中国人鲜血的逆贼。按旧史(《殊域周咨录》)载,安南的得而复失,是一个极其惨烈的过程,明朝“数万官吏尽成南荒之鬼”。究其失败原因,实非黎贼神武,也非明军无能,而是安南在明属之前,已脱离中国四五百年,人民分离意识极强。明朝无视当地习惯,强行以夏变夷,自然不得人心。越南人大搞游击战,明军伤亡惨重,最后不得不撤出。1431年,明朝正式承认了黎利在安南的统治。自此以后,越南再也没有机缘成为中国的领土了。可叹!

还剑湖不大,形状略似脚印,四周草木扶疏,簇拥一泓碧水,还是叫绿水湖更为恰当。湖中有一个白色石塔非常显眼,称为“龟塔”(Thap Rua)。湖东北处有一个小岛,一座红色小桥将岛与湖岸相连,称为“栖旭桥”(Cau The Huc)。晨曦映射红桥,应是还剑湖一大景观,我也许该早点过来。走到桥头,看见大门石柱上刻着一幅对联:

临水登山一路渐入佳境,寻源访古此中无限风光

对联写的一般,但容易记住,以致后来我在快离开越南时还想起它。进门后,在左手这边,有一座石塔,形似毛笔,当地人称为“笔塔”(Thap But),塔身有“写青天”三个汉字。上了栖旭桥,就得掏钱了,票价10000盾,合人民币4元左右。岛上建有玉山祠(Den Ngoc Son),是一座道教祠堂,纯粹中国式建筑,供奉关帝、文昌帝君和他们的民族英雄陈兴道(Tran Hung Dao)。祠里到处都是楹联。我这才发现,越南人其实是写对联的高手。里面的对联都很工整,比如正殿前面的亭子上的两幅对联都不错:“庙貌山容相隐约,天光去影共徘徊”;“剑有余灵光若水,文从大块寿如山”。我最喜欢的,是正殿上的那幅:道有主张斗北文明之象,人同瞻仰交南礼乐之都。我觉得这联可以用来形容中国与越南的关系。

(还剑湖龟塔)


在正殿旁边,有一间小展览室,摆着一只据说是1968年在还剑湖捕获的一只大龟的标本。难道湖里真的有龟?!它是只斑鳖,身长超过两米,属于极度濒危物种,目前全世界仅存四只活体,中国有两只。但越南人认定,这只鳖是还剑湖独有的物种,与中国的不同,所以给它起了名字,叫“黎利鳖”(rafetus leloii)。想不到这么小的湖,居然能养这么大个儿的鳖。

出了陈列室,我又在岛上转了一会儿。还剑湖虽小,景色还是很耐看的,适合有闲情逸致的人观赏。可我还有好几件事要办,不能久留。我离开了玉山祠,准备到北边的老城区去。


(黎利鳖)


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